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Golfe du Morbihan

A few too many days off the water led to a hastily planned trip to the Golfe du Morbihan
Usually my trips to the golfe coincide with the spring tides to take full advantage of the currents, however with a coefficient of just 35 it really was the lowest neap that I have ever paddled on. The outline plan was to take a trip up the River Auray and on to the upper reaches of the River Bono


We parked in the large car park at Port Navalo, the bays were clearly marked "PAYANT"... it wasn't that long ago that all parking was free, but we quickly discovered that paid parking is restricted to the summer months.

Port Navalo is at the entrance to the Golfe, and even on neaps the current is fast, we planned to cross at slack moving up the river with the tide. It was still busy at the end of the summer with motor cruisers, yachts and fast touring ferries all jostling for space.

Soon we left the bustle and found a rather beautiful and tranquil river, the banks gave way to salt marshes hosting Egrets and Spoonbills.

Turning right into the River Bono led us up to the small drying harbour of Port du Bono, with an hour or so to spare before the tide turned we want up the hill for a beer.



Our return was fast, it also meant we would need to cross the main stream as it left the Golfe. We took a route on the inside of 'Petite vezid' and crossed over to the Petite Mouton, even on this neap tide there were some good bouncy waves in the main channel demanding a degree of accuracy to make the eddy after Petite mouton, before a more leisurely paddle back into Port Navalo

Baie d'Ecalgrain a Aurigny

La veille de notre depart, nous avons eu droit a ce superbe coucher de soleil avec vur sur Aurigny.
On a charge les bateaux avant de dormir. Le matin, sur l'eau une demi heure plus tot que prevu, depart a 11h. Traversee sans incident mais nous avons ete trop lents sur le dernier tiers ( qui coincidait avec l'augmentation des courants), ce qui nous a valu des efforts pour passer la pointe nord de l'ile vers Saye Bay ou se trouve le camping.
Le dernier "tide race" au nord est de l'ile a ete trop fort et on n'a pas pu le franchir, donc nous l'avons passe au sud est et une fois proches de la cote, nous avons pu remoter entre les cailloux. Ca nous a coute une heure!



Voici la photo du camping situe derriere la dune de Saye Bay.
Notre plan de depart etait de visiter l'ile le lendemain de notre arrivee puis de descendre vers le reste des anglo normandes, mais le temps n'etait pas genial. Nous avons passe une semaine sur l'ile avant de pouvoir faire la traversee retour.
Les coefficients de maree montaient ce qui augmentait la vitesse du courant pour traverser le Raz Blanchard ce qui nous empechait de rentrer. Les vents sud ouest Beaufort 5 nous empechaient de descendre sur Guernesey.


Nous avons pense faire du bateau stop mais le seul capable de nous prendre avec les kayaks, le Jantje ( sur la photo) etait plein, dommage, on aurait bien aime une petite croisiere a bord de ce vieux grement!




Nous avons eu largement le temps de visiter l'ile.

Voici une photo de la colonie de Fous de Bassan sur les Etacs au sud ouest de l'ile.



Un superbe coucher de soleil allant du violet a l'or deux jours avant notre retour>

La traversee avec un coefficient de 84 a ete tres agreable, mais pas le temps de s'arreter pour grignotersinon on risquait d'etre pris par les courants. Trois heures de traversee.

Merci aux gardes cotes d'Aurigny a qui nous avons communique notre plan de traversee.

Une ile interessante, entouree par 7 "tide races" et 3 gros secteurs de deferlantes.



Michelle entrant le "tide race" a l'exterieur de la jetee.

Auto Bilge pumps

Rule 500 auto bilge pumps have now been installed in both boats


Fully automatic pumps were chosen for the simplicity of Installation. There are 3 single core conductors sealed into the pump body, these have been joined onto a 3 core sheathed flex to allow the use of a waterproof gland through the bulkhead to the day hatch.



The joints in each conductor have been 'crimped' onto the sheathed cable. To waterproof the joints, a short length of plastic tube was slid over and the tube filled with sealant. The conductors from the pump are insulated with silicone insulation, and I found that a silicon sealant can 'roll' off quite easily.

I came across some glue called "Sticks like Sh*t " thought I must try that .... It has sealed all the joints in the tube and has dried colourless allowing any corrosion to be identified before failure
Time will tell !



Where the sheathed cable passes through the bulkhead, and into the sealed battery box, waterproof "Stuffing glands" have been used. The pump runs from 12 volt sealed lead acid batteries. Mine has a large capacity 7Ah so I have power to charge my iPhone as well as a number of AA batteries for the gps



The skin fitting has a small soft foam bung pushed in to keep the water from entering through the pump, the manufacturers specify 'No non return valves' When tested, the bung shoots out when the motor pumps water

Dehydrating meat

Often it can be difficult to purchase fresh meat when on an extended paddle trip.The alternative is tinned meats, frozen meat and commercial products. The availability of ready made boil in the bag products is now good, however these are expensive, and are heavy to carry. By dehydrating your own you can prepare a wide range of good quality meals. Over time I now find that minced beef is good to dry, the preparation is quick and easy, and it is easy to make up a tasty dinner like spaghetti bolognaise.

Minced beef after drying loses 75% of its weight, when stored in closed plastic bags will keep for 3 months, and when vacuum packed for nine months

Here's a few photos of the process

This a commercially available "Stockli" food dryer, after cooking the mince (Cook only enough to turn the pink meat brown ) You need to get rid of all the fat. Most can be spooned out of the pan immediately after cooking, next fill the pan with boiling water, the fat left will now float on top of the water.. scoop this away. You may need to do this 2 or 3 times depending on the fat content of the meat

Remember, the fat will reduce the effectiveness of drying and will quickly turn rancid.



The dried meat takes on the appearance of coffee granules after about 6 hours and will be hard and crunchy, and once packed can be stored in a freezer for up to two years (do not re freeze )



Many vegetables lend themselves well to drying, and are worth experimenting with.
Importantly, dry meat at a temperature of 70° this is necessary to kill bacteria in the meat.

The meat needs as little as 15 minutes to rehydrate in water, but longer times will improve the texture. Using warm water produces quicker results. After rehydrating add a little olive oil to take the dry texture away and then cook as you would usually do with fresh mince

Qajaq... "Island of Sardinia MV "

I collected my new boat whilst in England. For some time now I have been looking for a smaller boat for more playing rather than tripping. I have for many years paddled P&H kayaks, solid dependable and comfortable, but I just couldn't decide.

I looked at valley, tide race interested me and Rockpool, but then came across the Italian company Qajaq. A review in Ocean paddler looked promising, " a play boat for the larger paddler" goods comments were made about the construction, and the cockpit looked comfortable.
A copy of the review PDF can be downloaded here www.qajaq.it/news_eng.html
Poole bay Kayaks are the UK importers. A demo round Poole bay in the 'Island of Sardinia' MV and the boat was sold !

Medway Estuary

Living in France means no sea kayaking at night. Our last night in UK with almost a mirror surface we launched from Gillingham Strand to journey up the Medway with the last couple of hours flood.

I anticipated leaving the Van at the head of the slipway, but a number of local 'chavs' dissuaded me ... they were currently amusing themselves throwing pebbles at the the last two Jet skiers. With the van parked in the car park my short walk back to the shore coincided with the last few minutes of light.

It was an interesting paddle, a bit like jumping on a conveyor belt, we sped along with the current jumping off to take a look at Upnor castle, in fact it's far more impressive by night with the floodlighting

After being serenaded by another group of 'Chavs' we began our return trip just short of Rochester bridge.



The following morning we took a walk along part of the previous night's journey. Despite the very urban nature we were rewarded with this view of a rather elegant Thames Sailing barge.

As we moved along the shore we came across numerous ruins, including an old concrete bunkhouse. It's position on the mud shows quite clearly how the land is receding.



This part of the Estuary is also home to a large community of houseboat dwellers, the range of craft on the moorings is wide, from Dutch steel barges to tug boats and lightships !

Maunsell Forts .. Red Sands Towers

Previously living in North Kent, I have visited the old forts on the Thames estuary several times, with the continuance of the good weather conditions were ideal for another trip

Back in England .. again

Its been a busy few weeks since our visit to Ouessant. Another trip back to UK coincided with some brilliant weather, a trip along the Jurassic coast looked good here's a few shots


Beautiful colours with the sun lowering at the end of the day ....

Back on Île d'Ouessant

Phare du Stiff

Just a stunning Island, I have a feeling I will be back in the not too distant future.
A previous post looked at Crea'ch lighthouse. The lighthouse buildings also house the Lighthouse and Bouyage museum of Finistere.

It is a fascinating visit, with a massive collection of Fresnel Lenses, their effectiveness is illustrated with just 60 watt lamps, it's amazing how the light is focused and amplified.

I also sat through some 30 minutes of old black and white footage showing the history of the Breton lighthouses. It included the aerial rope transfers of keepers .. a very neat solution on rough seas ! Everyone ought to go !

Here is some frightening video of Breton lighthouses during storms, terryfying conditions !


The first Lighthouse featured is 32 meters high !

Back on the British Isles

Les Minquiers, a large reef just 18 miles north of Cap Frehal, consists of just a dozen houses on Grande Ile, originally homes for fishermen.

The public toilet is the most southerly in the British Isles, and also doubles as a navigation mark. Careful searching among the rocks will reveal some quite intricate carvings, granite from the reef was quarried here in the early 1800's and quarrymen seemed to have spent their spare time carving their names

Fishing in Brittany

On a coastal trip from Pointe du Penmac'h to Loctudy we followed a fishing boat into the port of Guilvinec, just loads of brightly coloured boats.
It ranks as the third largest fishing Port in France

Stand up paddle World Surfing championships

April 30th saw the opening of the SUP World surf championship open at Pointe de la Torche in Finistère. Monday saw some great surf, here's a photo of an 'average' wave.. a few rolled in much bigger !

It's still quite rare to see surf kayaks here, but waveskis are gaining in popularity.

With 12km of beach, plenty of room for everyone !

Room with a view

There are some remarkable Chateaux in France, some are state owned but many more are privately owned. Here are a couple, quite contrasting in style, but all amazing examples of the builders skill

A perfect location at Locquirec on the North coast with stunning views over the Bay of Lanion


Better described as a Fort but named 'Château du Taureau' Originally built to protect the Bay of Morlaix from the English!



Dating back to the 17C the Chateau de l'Île Blanche sits alongside the drying port of Toul An Héry. On Spring tides only, permission is granted by the owners (An order of Nuns) to walk through the grounds of the Chateau when the coastal footpath floods

Cliffs and Caves

There's nothing better than exploring inside caves, the structure and the striking colours. The coast at Morgat in Brittany is renowned for the sheer numbers of caves. indeed there are several companies based in the fishing port making a living taking tourists on cave visits in RIBs.



At low tide it is possible to explore on foot

West Coast Paddling

It's really great to be paddling on the west coast and witness the magnificent sunsets, they are always different, and you just have to reach for the camera.

This shot was taken on the Eastern side of the Golfe du Morbihan


The next shot was captured at l'Arcouest On the Côte de Granite Rose, the sky appeared to be on fire, awesome

Île d'Ouessant

The English name for this island is Ushant, it has a notorious reputation amongst seafarers. The current flow is fast around the Island, up to 8 knots at springs, any wind above force 3B creates a bumpy passage.



The island boasts 5 lighthouses, a good indication of the treacherous nature of these waters. The lighthouse Créac'h having the most powerful light in the world

Another picture

Still trying to rationalise all this IT stuff ...
Hard to find a way through the jungle of Tweets Blogs and Facebook ....

So far sacked Facebook... too distracting, and that makes Twitter good !

So for now while I tie in the iphone here's a rather good pic of the Île de Hoëdic

Sunrise Île de Hoëdic